'Blessed' Papua New Guinea welcomes pope during landmark tour
Over mountains, by air, and by sea, pilgrims have flocked to
Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea's capital where Pope Francis landed late Friday
on a landmark visit.
The 87-year-old pontiff will spend four days and three
nights in one of the Pacific's poorest and most troubled nations, addressing
politicians and bishops, meeting street children, and travelling to the remote
jungle outpost of Vanimo.
He will hold mass for tens of thousands of the faithful in
the capital, people such as Josephine Gofeau who describe his visit as a
"blessing" that has brought "peace and harmony" to a
country that is short on both.
Once-dusty roads have been swept, street hawkers cleared
away and yellow-and-white Vatican flags flutter from lampposts under the warm
breeze of the Coral Sea.
Among the gathering masses are 43 pilgrims who travelled by
foot from the north coast to the south, traversing dense jungle and the
formidable central cordillera, a journey measured in weeks, not days.
The trip was less arduous for others, but no less
transformative.
Sophie Balbal travelled from the island of New Britain to
represent a group of mothers.
"This is the very first time in my life to travel on a
plane and to come to Port Moresby," she told AFP excitedly.
"Whatever message he passes on to us, I will try my
best to pass it on to my fellow mothers, all the mamas in our parish."
Papua New Guinea is devoutly Christian but suffers from
poverty, rampant domestic abuse, bloody witch hunts and murderous tribal
violence in which thousands have been killed and tens of thousands displaced.
Human Rights Watch has dubbed Papua New Guinea "one of
the most dangerous places to be a woman or girl". By some estimates, 80 per cent of women have been subjected to violence by their partners.
In the country's Highlands, false accusations of sorcery
frequently prompt violent witch hunts that kill or maim victims.
The under-resourced police service, which has 6,000 officers
for a country of 12 million people, has been unable to stem the violence.
So for Philip Gibbs, a New Zealand-born priest who arrived
in Papua New Guinea as a missionary 50 years ago and now leads the Divine Word
University, the pope's visit is a golden opportunity to tackle the issue
head-on.
"The bishops have made sure that he's been briefed on
that, definitely," he told AFP. "I'm quite confident that it will
come into one of his speeches."
For many in Papua New Guinea, the church is synonymous with
healthcare, education and welfare that the state does not provide.
There is great hope that the church can also bring peace,
where the state cannot.
"We have our own issues in the country, the most
important thing that we aspire to have for our country and for ourselves is
peace, for our people to be united," said pilgrim Ted Mea.
With "the presence of the Pope in our land, we hope
that blessings can come to our land, and our leaders", he said.
However, the relationship between church and state may also
be one of the more contentious issues facing the pope on his visit.
An estimated 98 percent of Papua New Guineans are Christian
and about 25 per cent are Catholic.
But those figures belie the rich blend of beliefs and
customs in a nation that has more than 850 distinctive ethnolinguistic groups.
Many Papua New Guineans believe deeply in a Christian god as
well as a panoply of animist beliefs that sit alongside still-strong Indigenous
customs.
That blended identity is embodied in Prime Minister James
Marape, the son of a Seventh-day Adventist preacher, and a leader who rarely
answers his phone on the Saturday Sabbath.
Marape is also a leader of the Huli people, one of Papua New
Guinea's largest Highland tribes.
He has said Christianity defines the nation, while proudly
donning his tribe's ceremonial loincloths and its distinctive bicorned wig made
from the owner's own hair and adorned with the feathers of exotic birds.
The Pope's visit is likely to rekindle debate about changing
Papua New Guinea's constitution, making it an explicitly Christian nation.
The country's constitution reflects both facets of the
country, with a promise to safeguard its "noble traditions and the
Christian principles that are ours now".
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