Mlango Kubwa estate: How the giant door to Nairobi gave birth to Mathare

The estate, Mlango Kubwa, lies some 3.7 kilometers from Nairobi CBD. Not far from it, on the opposite side of Juja road, lies the famous Mathare. Mathare valley, to be specific.

Locals arriving in Nairobi, in 1950s, especially from villages in Muranga, Kiambu areas of Thika had to be screened by hawkeyed mzungus before being allowed entry into the capital.

This procession of new arrivals – looking for new opportunities -- came in via Juja road, since Thika road did not exist at the time. The road connected to Juja, thus the name.

This screening was happening at the height of State of Emergency in 1952.

The colonialist was keen on keeping any suspected Mau-Mau adherents out of the fast growing capital, which among other things served as the administrative town.

Mind you, the colonialist also lived in the cool areas around Nairobi, and therefore had to be kept safe from Mau Mau – had they decided to invade the capital.

“The Colonialist had declared an all-out war against Mau Mau fighters. This is why screening points were put in place to sieve through thousands of visitors arriving into the capital, especially from Central parts of Kenya where the white man was facing a lot of opposition,” says historian and researcher Bethuel Oduo.

And so, those coming into Nairobi, then the seat of colonial power, had to be properly screened.

“Many of those who were denied entry into Nairobi ended up settling around Mathare valley – as squatters,” says Oduo – noting that this is why you will find many speakers of Kikuyu language in Mathare. 

This is how Mathare came into being; and would in the following years spread to form other 'Mathares' as population grew and many people came to Nairobi.

The name Mathare was derived from Muthare tree in Kikuyu, Or Dracena tree in English. 

Mlango Kubwa (Swahili word for big door) – served as one such entry and screening point.

The visitors, having learned some Kiswahili, christened the screening point ‘Mlango Kubwa’ -- because it was the main door to Nairobi – especially for those coming from the other side of Kiambu and Central Kenya.

Today, Mlango Kubwa is a sprawling estate that has since become important part of the furniture in Nairobi. The estate borders Mathare, Eastleigh and Pangani.