Kofia za vitho: Swahili hats that cost up to Sh50,000, and take three months to weave

Kofia za vitho, the intricately woven hats, have long been associated with the Swahili culture along the coastal region.

The hats are an integral part of the traditional attire, especially for the Swahili community.

The craftsmanship behind Kofia za vitho is a skill passed down successive generations on the islands of Lamu, Pate, Faza, Mombasa, and Zanzibar.

The hats are meticulously hand-sewn and take approximately three months to complete just one.

Life on Lamu island moves at a leisurely pace. Every Friday, men don their kanzus (robes) and kofia za vitho to head to the mosque for the Jumaa prayer. The hats complete the ensemble of the kanzu, a cultural attire rooted in Arabian countries.

The kofia itself begins with a round base and two layers of kahafu, with the top layer being slightly larger. But how are they crafted?

Yumbe Ahmed, the chairperson of the Tawakal Self-Help Group, a women's sewing group specialising in clothing and vitho hats, explains the process.

"First, I begin by sketching floral patterns by hand with a pen, and then we start adding the beads. There is a specific starting hat called bulbul mthanga, followed by various other designs."

"The challenge lies in the laborious work and the time it takes to sew them. Additionally, the needle pricks your fingers, but the monetary reward is worth it," she adds.

The prices range from Sh20,000 to Sh50,000 depending on quality.

"The hats hold a certain status, and when you wear one, your dignity is heightened. They have a unique allure," says Fatma, one of the seamstresses.

The intricacy of the embroidery depends on the skill and creativity of the seamstress. The stitching process follows, giving the hat a defined shape. The threads used are specifically chosen for the embroidery, and they come in various colors. The holes, known as vitho, are made using a thorny sea urchin spine.

Amina Ali, a resident of Kwa Tini neighbourhood in Faza Island, and a vitho hat seamstress, emphasises the importance of the thorny spine in the craft.

"First, I examine the base and provide a price estimate. I use a special thread called lasi, and we have a specific needle for embroidering the hat to make it look pleasing. We use the thorny sea urchin spine to create the small holes called vitho," she explains.

For the hat to be aesthetically pleasing, it must be hand-sewn. Each space is filled following the embroidery pattern. Afterwards, each section of the hat is tapped to prevent it from becoming lumpy. The final step involves perforating the vitho holes.

Mohamed Abdulkadir, an elder from Lamu Island, emphasizes that: "The vitho hat is a symbol of pride for every Swahili. The more intricate the vitho design and the stitching, the clearer the craftsmanship and the expertise of the seamstress. Our elders' cultural heritage has been preserved by the National Museums of Kenya (NMK), which has played a significant role in this."

According to tradition, when a customer buys a vitho hat, they receive two separate pieces to dispel the notion that it has been worn by someone else previously. Finally, the customer connects the mshadhari (embroidery) to the kahafu, and the hat is ready to be worn.

However, there has been a recent shift, with the introduction of machine-made hats resembling kofia za vitho. How do the seamstresses feel about this?

"These modern hats are damaging our business, and they diminish the prestige and our cultural heritage on the island. Moreover, these machine-made hats lack the traditional holes and tend to be uncomfortably warm," remarks Zahra, one of the seamstresses from Pate Island.

Despite the challenges faced, the art of crafting kofia za vitho continues to thrive, preserving the rich cultural heritage of the Swahili people along the coast. These hats are not just accessories but symbols of tradition, dignity, and the Swahili way of life.